How to play backgammon correctly to win. How to play long backgammon

Game strategy long backgammon

This guide is designed for beginners

Checker (counter) - what they walk with. At the beginning of the game, each player has 15 checkers on the board.

Head - initial formation of 15 checkers in the first position. As the game progresses, there are fewer and fewer checkers on the head, but until the last checker it is considered a head.

According to the rules, more than one checker cannot be moved from the head (except for the very first move in the case of 3: 3, 4: 4 and 6: 6).

Move - execution of a movement in accordance with the dropped numbers at the dawn. Thus, a move is from 1 to 4 moves with one or different checkers. It is also possible to skip a move if it is not possible to make a single move according to the rules.

Hole (position, field) - a place on the board where a checker can be placed. Holes on the board 24. Positions at the head - the place to which you can get from the head for the dropped out number of points. For example, position 5 is a move to 5 from the head, i.e. the sixth position of the first quarter of the board.

Quarter - half of one of the two halves of the backgammon board:

  • I - the one with which the game begins, i.e. the one where the head is;
  • II - the quarter following the head (for the opponent, this is the ejection zone);
  • III - the one where the opponent's head is;
  • IV - ejection zone (the last in the direction of movement of checkers).

Fence (screen) - two or more standing checkers in a row.

Reserve - the presence of moves by checkers, which allows not to release the most important positions at the moment of the game, which, in the event of a checker leaving, will be taken by the opponent.

Starting the game of long backgammon

Although the first few moves do not solve serious tactical problems, under certain conditions they can seriously affect the course of the game.

The basic rule: we take one checker from the "head", the second we go in another place. Those. you need to develop, balance between placing checkers at your "head" and at the opponent's "head", to seize territory. The logic of the game dictates that one must put one checker to capture a position near one's own head, and the other one to "drive" to someone else's head. The exception is situations when the opponent threatens to build a long fence near his head, for example, of 5 checkers - then it will be more competent to take a free space inside this fence, even if you do not remove any checkers from your head.

The tactical plan for the first few (usually 5-7) moves is quite simple - defending the positions of your own head and capturing positions from someone else's head. The importance of the second and fourth quarters of the board is secondary at the initial stage.

1. Try not to allow the capture of three or more senior positions in a row at your head. accordingly, try to do it yourself with a stranger.

2. The position on move 6 from the head is "inconvenient" from the point of view of the next move for capturing positions from someone else's head. in one move, she misses the third quarter. It is better to place (or move) this checker a little further, preparing for the jump to the third quarter.

3. The biggest danger in the first moves is the "bad" arrangement of checkers in case of throwing a big jackpot (and in very rare cases, not the biggest jackpot), take this into account when making your move.

4. Try to keep your checkers in the second quarter in such a way as to reach the third quarter in one move.

5. If the opponent's checkers are already ready to take positions in your first quarter. try to block his moves in at least one movement.

What to be guided by when capturing someone else's head:

  • the more you capture, the better.
  • if there is a choice, capture the senior places (move from the head to 4-5-6).
  • the tighter the grip, the better; if there is a choice, put checkers in the "fence", ie in a row, without gaps.
  • you need at least one place to avoid getting stuck; if the situation is difficult, try to take a place in the middle (for example, on the opponent's move from the head 3).
  • as a rule, two places on someone else's head are enough to move into the ejection zone
  • if it was not possible to build a fence in the zone near the opponent's head, rebuild with new checkers and strive to capture the maximum in the ejection zone; it is preferable to capture places in a heap and in the center.
  • if you manage to capture 4 free places out of 6 along the move of the opponent's head, you have a chance to "strangle" him and place a mars; for such a case, you can even risk your defense.
  • 5 occupied places out of 6 at someone else's head - already 90% Mars, if there are still many checkers on the head.
  • if you have taken 5 places at someone else's head, the sixth is free, but you cannot reach there, then it makes sense to rearrange the checkers so that the "hole" is closer to the head itself.
  • the more "stuck" checkers the opponent has and the less moves his "free" checkers have, the more justified the risk of capturing places at the opponent's head by weakening positions in other parts of the board.

All points about "seizing" territory from someone else's head should be tried on to yourself from the point of view of defense, blocking strategic fields.

Let's analyze one more point related to the beginning of the game.

The only jackpot that allows a checker, moving from his head not to rest against someone else's, is 5: 5. The path of his checker goes through position 5 (i.e. move 5 from the head) from his own head, position 3 at the other's head, and the path of the opponent's checker goes through his five at his head and your three.

Therefore, many experienced craftsmen highlight these two fields at the head and try to occupy them in the first place and, accordingly, close them in themselves.

Alternative moves

It often seems that you can play in different ways and many of the options for moves in long backgammon are the same. However, beginners make a lot of mistakes. The reason is that they evaluate the value of a move in terms of the position on the board, which they see before their eyes. However, it is much more important to predict what the position will be by the next move.

To effectively capture an important square on your next move, you need to consider which position is most convenient for capturing, i.e. where you need to put your checker (within the limits of the choice that you have) so that the next move is most likely to occupy the desired square, if the opponent cannot occupy it

Let us consider the probability of a checker hitting the required square, provided that the throw of the charge is not yet known.

We take for consideration 12 fields (6 + 6) by distance from the target and for each we calculate the probability of hitting the target.

  • In total, there are 36 cases of charge loss.
  • The probability is equal to the ratio of the number of "good" cases divided by the total number of cases.
  • The probability of hitting a jackpot is 1/36.
  • The probability of getting any other combination is 2/36 or 1/18.
  • The probability in our case can be measured as a whole number without a fraction (division by 36), since for all probabilities, the denominator is 36.
  • The probability of a throw in which one number is needed (eg 5) is 11 (ie 11/36).

From a player's perspective, 1-2 and 2-1 are the same thing. But for calculating the probabilities, these are 2 different favorable events. That is why we can say that the probability of a 2-1 outlier is 1/18.

From these postulates, mathematically, it turns out that to get the highest probability of hitting a checker on the desired field, you need to stand behind 6 fields; the probability is about 47%. The picture does not change either the presence of an obstacle in the way of the checker move - as before, the greatest probability of hitting will be from field 6 to the desired place.

In order to get the maximum probability of one of the two checkers hitting the desired field, they must be placed in 5 and 6 fields, respectively; the probability of hitting is 83%.

How to use this data? Place your checkers in such a way as to get maximum opportunities for further advancement to the necessary fields for yourself and minimum opportunities for your opponent.

Lack of moves in long backgammon

The fundamental principle underlying all tactical formations and techniques of long backgammon. - this is a deficit of moves. The ability to handle the "deficit of moves" of one's own and the opponent is a sign of the highest skill.

Conventionally, the "deficit of moves" is of two types:

  • alarming. scarce passages open up strategically important fields (for example, protecting from Mars); at the same time, in order to eliminate the deficit, one has to sacrifice all other factors, for example, not to occupy free fields, to vacate some previously occupied fields, to create “scarcity” in other places
  • moderate. deficient moves mean only a loss of points (unplayed moves of the dropped dice), and do not lead to serious positional deterioration; we should try to eliminate such a deficit, but not sacrifice strategic or tactical tasks

You need to monitor not only your deficit of moves, but also the deficit of your opponent. Situations are quite possible when the elimination of one's own can help the opponent to remove his, possibly even more acute deficit.

The lack of moves can be not only harmful, but also useful! This is especially true during the war of fences and attempts to hold on to an important strategic field. At every opportunity, a checker on this square needs to arrange a deficit of the move that is not present in other parts of the board. Moreover, if the opponent takes it, you can be calm for another checker, in which he will reliably block the deficit move.

The stock of moves and the deficit of moves are, in general, the same thing, but from opposite sides. However, it is this side (deficiency of some moves), and not the other (excess or supply of some other moves) that is important for correct analysis situations on the board. If you have a lot of moves for 5, this will not give a particular advantage, but a deficit of moves for 4 can lead to serious problems and give your opponent the opportunity to build a game or counterplay.

Fence in long backgammon

The fence is the chips of one of the players, built tightly in a row, from 3 to 6 chips. More than 6 chips, the length of the fence does not matter.

If you've built a fence, you've already created an advantage for yourself. The fence is a source of a constant deficit of moves for the opponent and, at the same time, a source of his own supply of moves.

  • 3 chips - a fence that does not pose a serious danger to the opponent, but if it is correctly placed in the right place and combined with other fences or other types of advantages, then it may well be an effective tool. It is most effective at the beginning of the game in positions on the opponent's move 4, 5 and 6 from his hand, i.e. when this fence covers the moves from the opponent's hand 4-5-6.
  • 4 chips is already a serious cause for an opponent's concern in itself. The fence built at the opponent's hand is already a real threat to make a mars, and if in a position that closes the opponent's hand move to 3, 4, 5 and 6, then such a fence is already 70% mars to the opponent. Although a lot depends on the number of chips in hand at the time of the fence installation. Such a fence is quite effective if it is built in the fourth quarter for itself, i.e. in its discharge zone.
  • 5 chips - the fence is very dangerous almost anywhere. It is most effective in the opponent's hand when the only remaining move is 1.2, or 3.
  • 6 chips - a solid fence that is impossible to pass; almost guaranteed to win if it's in 1 quarter, and almost guaranteed to win if it's in 3 or 4 quarters.

Fences require the accumulation of checkers at its ends, so that when the required number (or jackpot) falls out, it can be used to overcome the fence.

To fight the fence, it is important to "hold" the first and second points of the fence, but you need to accumulate checkers mainly at the first point.

Important news:

Nowadays backgammon is very popular, mainly due to the appearance of the Internet version, where you can find opponents from all over the world for real money. The game itself requires a lot of experience from the player, and one of the most important things is choosing the right strategy.

Fortunately, the leading backgammon websites offer some kind of tutorial or introduction to the game and advice on the game that you should follow depending on the situation. To become a more experienced backgammon player, we recommend that you read the following tips.

Scoring

Most beginners ignore the scoring that many servers lead to online backgammon (this is the sum of the dice points required to complete the game). However, players should pay attention to scoring and adjust their game strategy accordingly, rather than go through the whole game with a predetermined strategy and rely only on luck.

- "Consistent" strategy

The player has several different strategies at his disposal. "Open" or "sequential" play means moving the pieces over long distances, which allows you to quickly move all the pieces to your "home" (Cells 1 through 6 in the lower right corner of the screen). But it has drawbacks - it can leave your pieces open to attack by the enemy. If you have few pieces left to move to win, then this is a suitable strategy. Blitzkrieg is a slightly more dangerous strategy. This is a direct attack on the pieces of your opponents and simultaneously blocking as many cells as possible in your part of the board. The goal is to keep your opponent on the inside of the board as you advance towards your home.

Retention strategy

Another option is that players can defend their pieces by stacking them in columns, which will reduce the opponent's chances for their attack. Thus, it will be possible to attack the enemy at a time when he brings his pieces closer to the "home". A similar strategy should be used when the enemy begins to win and he has fewer pieces left than you.

Filling strategy

The "fill" strategy is a specific type of blocking, the goal is to create a block (six consecutive closed cells). The opponent cannot move his pieces outside the block, which gives you a significant advantage in the game.

Short review

It is best to use whatever strategy you do best, act as appropriate and think several moves ahead. This will help you better apply your chosen strategy. In the game, not only luck is important, but also strategy.

Backgammon - logic game checkers, in which the dice introduce an element of probability, making the game unpredictable. Backgammon is one of the oldest intellectual games, which combined the elements of strategy and chance.

The randomness in the game depends on the location of the dice. No one is able to predict the combination of the dice before throwing, much less foreseeing what the next throws will be. The main element of backgammon is not excitement, but intellect and sport, in connection with which the game is considered sports-logical.

If you want to become a good backgammon player, learn not just to play, but to understand how to win at backgammon. To do this, you must learn to model and predict the options for changing the situations that are developing in the game, guess what steps the opponent will take and, if necessary, "take risks" and be able to calculate them in advance.

And although in backgammon there is a certain dependence on the dice, the player himself makes a decision when choosing a move. Understanding the intricacies of the game, the player is able to react to unpredictable changes, suggest options for continuing the game, and wait for the combinations needed to advance.

The strategy of playing backgammon requires the player to be collected and clear of thought, the ability to calculate various combinations and moves, and depending on how the dice fall out. Such skills are achieved through long training sessions, numerous games. An important aspect is the player's endurance.

And now a few words about the backgammon strategy itself:

  • Rate the position. If you assess the position correctly, you will get a powerful tool in backgammon - a cube, which will complicate the game and make it more dynamic. The cube will allow you and your opponent to raise the stakes in the game, increasing the number of points in the draw.
  • Building your board is creating many items in the house. This strategy has two main advantages - it is difficult to retreat to the enemy and it is difficult to introduce blots. By knocking down your opponent's blots, you can gain absolute control over the board.
  • Risk. You can take the risk of leaving vulnerable blots. This is done in order to get the opportunity to take advantageous positions.
  • Departure. Be careful when leaving the enemy's house. Your opponent's checkers will be placed on your opponent's home board. It is in your interest to quickly remove checkers, especially if the enemy starts building up his home board.
  • Reverse play. This involves creating a large number of anchors on your opponent's home board, which will prevent him from bringing the checkers into the house, and he will be forced to expose them to attack.

Try playing backgammon. The tactics of the game, complex combinations, the need to calculate possible combinations in advance and the element of surprise introduced by the dice make backgammon one of the most exciting board games.

Long backgammon belong to the category of games in which the moves must be calculated at the very beginning. Otherwise, you can get into a rather unpleasant position, which will ultimately lead to the loss of an advantage over your opponent. Knowing the secrets of playing long backgammon means increasing the likelihood of your victory in advance.

Attentiveness and concentration from the first minutes are the guarantee of your success. Special attention should be paid to the opponent's first move, because only in this case it is possible to somehow calculate the options for future moves. It seems to many that the initial movements of checkers do not carry a strategic load. But those who are fans of this game will say differently: basically they determine the subsequent alignment of forces.

The unwritten rule of long backgammon states that one piece should go forward, and the other should remain " in the head". In this way, you can capture a position and gain an advantage on the playing field. The faster the player takes possession of advantageous positions in the house, the easier it will be for him in the future to overcome obstacles on the way to victory.

Here are some secrets of long backgammon, or principles to follow:

1 ) Do not let the enemy capture more than three positions at your head, otherwise you will lose your advantage. Conversely, try to do the same yourself.
2 ) Place checkers beyond the sixth position. Otherwise, it will be almost impossible to get to the required III quarter
3 ) Prepare in advance for the fact that a double (kush) may fall out. If at the same time you have nothing to go, you, again, will lose the advantage. With a successful placement, the jackpot can turn the course of the whole game
4 ) It is advisable to transfer checkers from the second quarter to the third in one move - this will ensure a rapid offensive
5 ) Try to block the moves of the opponent immediately after his checkers approached the first quarter.

However, it should be remembered that the enemy probably knows the secrets of the game of backgammon and will definitely use them. Therefore, to capture the necessary territories, try to guess what is on his mind, and carefully think over the defense.

If a beginner does not pay due attention to predicting positions, it will be almost impossible for him to win long backgammon. This is one of the main things that you definitely need to learn. Knowing the basics of tactics will allow the player to get the most advantageous position on the playing field both at the moment and in the future.

It is the knowledge of the secrets of the game of backgammon, the ability to use them, to find a way out of even the most impasse situation that distinguishes an experienced player from a “loser”. If you have a real professional as an opponent, watch how he plays, analyze his actions and you will soon also start winning even against the strongest Nard players.

Often you want to play a little to distract from the daily hustle and bustle. Table backgammon are an entertaining game. Here you can show your intellectual abilities, knowing some of the rules of success. So, everything is in order. There are several varieties of this game. But for everyone there is general rules and, having understood them, you can safely play this addicting game... First, you need to clarify: what the game consists of, its course and, of course, the goal itself.

There are 24 long triangles on the board. They are called points and moves are made on them. The numbering is assigned in two varieties: for one player from 1 to 24, for the other, on the contrary, from 24 to 1. The rules of the game of backgammon depend on their variety. Often, players are dealt checkers of 15 or less. Move the checkers differently in different games... But the moves are determined by the two dropped dice. To begin with, they look at the indicator from one bone and move the checker point by point, then from the second bone and then also point by point. When a double falls, the moves are doubled. In this game, you need to move checkers across the playing field faster than your opponent.

Board backgammon can be short or long. The game is calculated in points, it is on the points won that the game is played this game... For the entire course of the game, you can win a different number of points, it all depends on what the game ended with: coke, mars or with a double stake. Backgammon can be played either by party or by matches. There are certain rules here that govern the process of the game. Backgammon has its own certain tricks that everyone can comprehend. Someone independently gains experience, for someone it is easier to read the recommendations of experienced ones.

Rule # 1. Think over the course of the game from the first seconds. The rules of the game of backgammon exist to keep control. One of the most important rules: "One checker from the head, the second on another site." Rule number 2. As mentioned earlier, it is important to think about moves from the first seconds. Special attention is paid to "First moves". Rule # 3. "Silent move" is applied when none of the players have fields to occupy, or if the field is not in danger. Rule # 4. "Building a fence" is carried out by lining up several checkers along one point. Such a "fence" at the end will impede the opponent's move.

Rule # 5. Board backgammon requires constant calculation of moves. It is important to predict in advance the number of moves of your own and your opponent when a combination of zar falls out, so that a situation of "shortage of moves" does not arise. Rule # 6. "Occupying empty seats." In the game, not every position is beneficial: the position at the head of the opponent is tactical goals, in the final zone where the checkers are thrown are strategic. As a rule, theory alone is not enough to win. These rules need to be applied in practice and in the future to introduce them into the habit, and with complete confidence to beat the opponent.

Checkers